Loy Kratong in Sukhothai

Loy Kratong in Sukhothai

Floating by Moonlight

On the full moon night of the twelfth lunar month, when the tide in the rivers is at its highest and the moon is at its most bright, Thais throughout the Kingdom will float their Krathong on the nearest stretch of water closest to their home. It’s Loy Krathong or the ‘festival of light’ possibly Thailand’s most beautiful festivals.


The name comes from Loy meaning ‘to float’ and kratong meaning a lotus shaped boat. Originally they were made either of banana leaves or layers of the trunk of a banana tree or spider lily plant. A kratong by tradition contains food, betel nuts, flowers, joss sticks, candle and a coin. The ritual is simple just light the candle and joss stick make a wish and let it float away carrying all your troubles of the previous year with it.

Having released your kratong, watch it carefully as it floats away. If the flame continues to burn it is believed to signify longevity, you wishes will be granted and you will be released from sin. It is a romantic night; couples that make their wish together are thought to stay together in the future.

The festival dates back more than 700 years and is believed to have started in the ancient Thai capital of Sukhothai. According to legend the favourite royal consort of King Maha Thammaraja was Nong Noppanas, a lady of great artistic talent. She took great delight in shaping lotus shaped Krathong’s (pronounced gra-tong) from banana leaves to make floating lanterns. When the King came to judge the best lantern he awarded first prize to Nong Noppanas. He then went onto decree that from that day forward, once a year on the night of the full moon, already a Buddhist holiday, should be celebrated by floating lotus shaped banana leaf boats. And so the festival of Loy Krathong was born.

Although it has been adopted as a Buddhist festival it is in fact of Brahmin origin in which people offer thanks to the goddess of water Phra Mae Kongka for providing water for the livelihood of the people.

The festival is celebrated throughout the country but to see it at its most beautiful return to its source, Sukhothai and celebrate in the Historical Park. The name Sukhothai means the dawn of happiness and was the first free Thai city founded in 1238 AD, signaling the end of Khmer rule from Angkor Wat. Sukhothai adopted the Ceylonese school of Theravada Buddhism and King Ramkhamhaeng invited Ceylonese monks to come and purify Buddhism in the Kingdom. Their influence not only touched doctrine but also religious architecture. The Ceylonese models inspired the bell shaped stupa, which is familiar in Thailand.

The first ruler of Sukhothai, King Ramkhamhaeng has also been accredited with having invented Thai script using the ancient Mon and Khmer as his model.

In addition to the more conventional krathongs floating on water in Sukhothai they also make highly elaborate hanging kratongs some four feet tall. More than 30 are displayed around the ponds each year each a work of art in themselves.

It is also a northern custom to float paper ballons (called Yee Peng Khom Loy- floating lanterns) that have been filled with hot air from an attached oil burner. These large balloon-like lanterns are released from temples and some family homes in the belief that misfortune will fly away with them.

It takes two people to hold them down while they are inflated. Then just as the ballons are starting to rise, they are released carrying their flickering light high into the night sky. Watching a train of Yee Peng floating upwards adds to the magic of this beautiful festival

What Thai festival would be complete without a beauty contest? Chosing the winner of the beauty contest for ‘The Noppanas Queen”, is almost as import as the judging of the Krathongs.

In the evening enjoy a traditional Khontoke Dinner in the grounds of Wat Sa Sri in Sukhothai Historical Park. Guests sit in groups of four on mats around a low circular table where they are served a selection of northern dishes. After dinner lay back and enjoy the Light & Sound Spectacular. With a cast of more than 300 performers it tells the story of Sukhothai’s glorious past. Action packed using the temple as a natural backdrop it is a stunning performance. The narration is in Thai should you wish to get a better understanding of the story, why not rent a mini CD with the commentary in English, Japanese, French or Thai.

Although Loy Krathong is an ancient Thai festival thanking the gods for an abundance of water it is sadly ironic that today’s use of synthetic foam has been taking its toll on the environment. When chosing your krathong this year, take a moment to check that it is environmental friendly. How can you expect to receive favours from the goddess of water when your messenger is causing her harm?

How to get there

By Bus
Both air and non air-conditioned buses leave Bangkok for Sukhothai daily from the Northern Bus Terminal, Kamphaeng Phet Road. Tel. 537-8055-6

By Train
There are no trains going directly to Sukhothai. One may travel by train to Phitsanulok and then take a local bus to Sukhothai, some 50 km away. Contact Bangkok Railway Station Tel. 223-7010, 223-7020

By Plane
BANGKOK AIRWAYS flies one flight daily at 8.20 hrs. from Bangkok to Sukhothai then on to Chiang Mai. For more information please contact Tel. 229-3456 - 63

By Car
Those with private cars will find it enjoyable to drive from Bangkok by having the opportunity of really seeing rural Thailand. They will travel through a number of provinces: Ayutthaya, capital of Thailand before Bangkok; Saraburi with its temple of Lord Buddha's Footprint; Lopburi with its ancient Khmer temple; Chai Nat with its huge irrigation dam; Nakhon Sawan where major rivers converge to form Maenam Chao Phraya; Phitsanulok with its various attractions; Kamphaeng Phet and Tak with their striking views of hills and rivers.